Creamy Lentil Aubergine Dhal
Eventually this recipe was going to end up here if for no other reason than the book it currently lives in is on its last legs. It is a 1994 copy of Vegetarian Cooking by Louise Pickford. I believe it’s out of print now which always leaves me with a conundrum – to keep the book on the shelf or take out the recipes I like and recycle the rest. There are three or four recipes we have obviously loved as evidenced by the splashes of oil and tomato stains on a few pages. The book itself falls open to the page for this recipe, marking it as the clear favorite. Something similar happens with every cookbook, I think. You buy it with the ambition (hope?) that you’ll make everything in it but inevitably you end up here with a scant handful of loved pages throughout a book that takes up valuable real estate on the bookshelf. Conundrum.
There’s also the fact vegetarian cooking has come a long way since 1994. Flipping through the book you see the usual suspects: lots of lentils, so many tomatoes and onions. You have to really look to find even one butternut squash or locate a lonely mushroom among the pages. Needless to say, avacado isn’t mentioned once. The other striking thing is that there are very few recipes that allow the vegetables to stand on their own. They’re mostly stand ins with pasta or cheese stealing the show. I don’t think that’s fair especially when fresh, in season produce can change your entire perception of what an ingredient can be. SEE: in season tomatoes vs out of season tomatoes.
Yet with this lentil and aubergine recipe, la Pickford has created an extraordinary dhal that is so satisfying we often double the recipe so it will last for a week of lunches. On the first bite it puts its arm around your shoulder and asks you how you’ve been. It is warm and companionable. You will find yourself spending more time with it than you expected. Which is why the book falls open to this page and why it will stay on the bookshelf. There are so many memories that have this dish on the table as we’ve gathered and grown. The spice mix is warming but not spicy so the kids would eat it even when they were staunchly against anything hot. The chunks of aubergine have a meaty resistance among the creamy lentils that has convinced anyone who proudly declared they could never be a vegetarian. I love it because it has something for everyone which is rare at our dinner table, if I’m honest. We have upped the spices over time from the original which is reflected below and somewhere along the line started adding pomegranate seeds as a garnish which is fun and lovely but absolutely optional. I hope you give it a try!